Mesh Market Bag | Free Crochet Pattern, Video Tutorial, Crochet Chart | HandyFinch.com

Simple Mesh Market Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

Introduction

This pattern is a mashup of my lightweight produce bag and my flower stitch granny square bag. I really love the crocheted flower stitch, but it’s pretty complicated and time consuming, so I wanted to make something simpler.

I’ve come across similar patterns for farmers market bags, like the Mavis String Bag by MotherBunch Crochet and the French Market Bag by Two of Wands, but both of these patterns required working rows back and forth. I just hate working rows, so I played around and came up with a similar style bag worked only in the round. Which makes it super, duper easy.

Finished Mesh Market Bag | Free Pattern and Video Tutorial | HandyFinch.com

I use a heavier yarn, but the beginning is identical to my produce bag pattern. Then instead of turning it into a cylinder, I kept making the square bigger and bigger. Gather all the sides in, throw on some foundation single crochet handles and BOOM! Ready for farmers market season!

I tried to simplify and clarify the pattern (compared to the produce bag pattern). Last time I tried to make the pattern simpler it kind of backfired, so hopefully this time it’s really better. I also made a video tutorial.

Enough exposition – on to the pattern!

Mesh Granny Square Crochet Chart | Free Crochet Pattern | HandyFinch.com
Mesh Granny Square Crochet Chart

Video Tutorial

Instructions

Materials

3 skeins Lily Sugar & Cream (2.5 oz each)

OPTIONAL: 2 skeins of one color for bag body and 1 skein for contrasting handles

Size J or K crochet hook

Mesh Granny Square

Mesh Granny Square Crochet Chart | Free Pattern | HandyFinch.com
Mesh Granny Square Crochet Chart

Round 1

Start with 6 single crochets (sc) in a magic ring. Pull ring tight and slip stitch (sl st) into first sc to join.

Follow chart up and counter clockwise. Chain 5 (ch5) at start of all subsequent rounds = double crochet + chain 2 (dc+ch2).

Round 2

Chain 5 (ch5), equivalent to a double crochet followed by a chain 2 (dc+ch2). Then in the same single crochet, work another dc+ch2.

Work two (2) dc+ch2 into each of the single crochets of the previous round. To join, sl st into ch5 space that started the round.

Round 3

Chain 5, equivalent to a dc+ch2. In the same space (the ch5 of the previous round), work another dc+ch2.

In each of the next two ch2 spaces of the previous round work one dc+ch2.

*In the next space work two (2) dc+ch2s.

In each of the next two ch2 spaces of the previous round work one dc+ch2.*

Repeat from * to * around. To join, sl st into ch5 space that started the round.

Increasing Rounds

22 rounds | free crochet pattern | HandyFinch.com
22 rounds

Rounds 4 to 22, or until square is desired size.

A chain 2 space between two double crochets that are worked into the same space is a “corner space.” Every round will have 4 corner spaces, the first being the last ch2 of the ch5 that starts the round.

A chain 2 space between two double crochets that are worked into adjacent spaces is a “side space.” The number of side spaces will increase by four (4) every round.

For each round, start with a ch5 (equivalent to dc+ch2), then work a dc+ch2 in the same space (to make a corner). Then, in every side space, work one (1) dc+ch2, and in each corner space, work two (2) dc+ch2. To join each round, sl st into the ch5 space that started the round.

Mesh Granny Square | Free Crochet Pattern and Video Tutorial | HandyFinch.com

Gathering Rounds

Round 1

Ch1 to start.

In every corner space work *sc, ch1, sc.* Mark each sc in the corner spaces.

In every side space work *sc, ch1.*

To join, sl st into first sc of the round.

Gathering of mesh granny square | Free crochet pattern and video tutorial |HandyFinch.com

Round 2

Ch1 to start.

In corners work *sc into first sc, sc into ch1 space, sc into second sc.* Each corner will have 3 stitches. Mark the first and third sc.

Along sides, single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) as follows: Insert hook into sc, draw up a loop, insert hook into ch1 space, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw loop through all 3 loops on hook.

This will reduce the number of stitches on each side by 50%. If you worked 22 rounds, at the end of this round, each side will have 22 stitches.

To join, sl st into first sc of the round. Be careful not to work into the sl st of the previous round or ch1 that started this round.

Round 3

Ch1 to start. In corners, work 1 sc into each sc. Each corner will have 3 stitches. Mark the first and third sc.

If you worked 22 rounds, then along each side work the following:

Sc2tog (insert hook into first sc, draw up a loop, insert hook into next sc, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw loop through all 3 loops on hook). Then *sc, sc2tog* six (6) times. Then sc2tog.

This reduces the number of stitches from 22 to 14, a decrease of 8, which is approximately ⅓, or 33%.

If you worked a different number of rows, then adjust the decreasing pattern accordingly to reduce by 30-35%. For example, if the side is 24 stitches, then work *sc, sc2tog* across to reduce to 16 stitches (33%). If side is 20 stitches, work //*sc, sc2tog* three times, sc2tog, *sc, sc2tog* three times// to reduce to 13 stitches (35%) OR work //sc, *sc, sc2tog* 6 times, sc// to reduce to 14 stitches (30%).

To join, sl st into first sc of the round. Be careful not to work into the sl st of the previous round or ch1 that started this round.

OPTIONAL: After Round 3, ch1 to start, then work 1 sc in each sc around, join with sl st into first sc.

Gathering sides of mesh granny square | free crochet pattern and tutorial | HandyFinch.com

Handles and Finishing

Ch1 to start. Sc into each corner sc of the previous round (3 sc).

*45 foundation single crochet (FSC). Skip all side stitches. Join with a single crochet into first (marked) sc of the next corner.

To make the foundation single crochet stitches: Insert hook into the middle of the single crochet you just worked. Make sure you aren’t just going under the top of the sitch, but actually cutting through the middle of the stitch so your hook is going under two parallel strands of yarn. Yarn over and draw the loop through the single crochet. You will have two loops on your hook. Yarn over again and draw through one loop. This is equivalent to a chain and makes the “foundation.” Yarn over again and draw through both loops on your hook to make the “single crochet.”

To make the next stitch, insert your hook into the foundation chain of the stitch you just made. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over again and draw through 1 loop, which makes another foundation chain. Yarn over again and draw through both loops on your hook. This makes another single crochet stitch, and you’ve now made two stitches. Repeat until handles are desired length.

Starting foundation single crochet handles | free crochet pattern and tutorial | HandyFinch.com

OPTIONAL: Substitute chains for FSC.

Sc in each of the remaining (2) corner scs. Sc in each sc along side.* Then in each sc of the next corner space (3 sc).

Repeat from * to * around. To join, sl st into first sc of the round. Be careful not to work into the sl st of the previous round or ch1 that started this round.

For a step by step photo tutorial of how to make a foundation single crochet, visit my Flower Stitch Granny Square Market Bag Pattern.

Foundation single crochet handles | Mesh Market Bag | free pattern and video tutorial | HandyFinch.com

To make the handles thicker, work at least 3 more rounds of *sc in each st around.* Always start with a ch 1 and join with a sl st, making sure not to work scs into the ch1s or sl sts. When the handles are as thick as you want, cut off your yarn, draw it through your last sl st and work in all your ends.

Ukulele in a bag | Mesh Market Bag Crochet Pattern | HandyFinch.com

Printables

Printable PDF formats of this pattern and chart are available to my Patreon patrons!

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You said something about a produce bag?

I sure did! You can find the instructions, video tutorial, and crochet chart for my first small lightweight produce bag pattern here.

Check it!

Here’s how to make a few simple changes to THIS pattern to convert it into the produce bag pattern:

  • Step 1: Switch to a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook. For the produce bags I use an F or G hook and size 10 crochet cotton (which is a “0” or “lace weight yarn”) so the bags are lightweight but also strong. I don’t want the weight of the bag counting against me when my produce is being rung up, so the lighter the better. Fortunately, they are super stretchy, so I don’t have to make them very large. By contrast, the mesh market bag pattern requires more of a worsted weight yarn and I would recommend a J or K hook.
  • Step 2: Stop increasing after 6 rounds. Or 7 rounds if you want a slightly bigger bag. The largest I would go is 8. To stop increasing, treat the corner spaces like they are side spaces and only work one (1) double crochet + chain 2 in each space. Work eleven to fourteen (11-14) more rounds after you stop increasing, until the bag is the length you want it.
  • Step 3: Don’t work any gather rounds – you don’t need them since you have made a cylinder instead of a square. There are a couple ways to end the bag. The easiest is to just finish off after the last slip stitch of the round and then add a drawstring to close it. I like to add handles to my bags using the foundation single crochet technique, and then add a few rounds of single crochets to strengthen them. I work mine in right from the double crochets, but you could sub in a round of single crochet + chain 2s instead of a double crochet + chain 2.

That’s it! Those are the only real differences between the two patterns! Which is awesome because you’re really getting two patterns for the price of one.

I also wrote up instructions for modifying my Mesh Market Bag pattern to make a Retro Produce Bag instead! It’s another free pattern for a lightweight, mesh bag in the “string bag” or “net bag” style.

Here’s what I did differently from the Mesh Market Bag:

  • Step 1: Switch to a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook. For the produce bags I use an F or G hook and size 10 crochet cotton (which is a “0” or “lace weight yarn”) so the bags are lightweight but also strong. I don’t want the weight of the bag counting against me when my produce is being rung up, so the lighter the better. Fortunately, they are super stretchy, so I don’t have to make them very large to still fit a LOT of produce.
  • Step 2: Stop increasing after Round 14, for a slightly smaller bag, or Round 16, for a slightly bigger bag. After 14 rounds my mesh granny square is about 12″ square; after 16 it’s about 13″. It doesn’t need to be any bigger than this to still hold a lot of produce, so adjust your gauge or number of rounds to get a square that’s 12-13″ to each side, but make sure to end on an even number of rounds.
  • Step 3: Adjusting the gathering rounds. All rounds still start with a chain 1 and join with a slip stitch into the first sc of the round, being careful not to work into the sl st or ch1. Mark the stitches the same way, too.
    • Gather Round 1 stays the same, with sc, ch1, sc in each corner space and sc + ch1 in each side space.
    • Gather Round 2 is different. In the corners work 3 sc (one in the sc, one in the ch1 space, and one in the next sc), same as in this pattern. Along the sides, work 1 sc in each ch1 space.
    • Gather Round 3 is different, too. The corners are the same as round 2, work 1 sc into each sc of the previous round. Along the sides, sc2tog across.
    • Gather Round 4: in the mesh market bag pattern this was listed as optional, but I recommend doing it here to cinch up the opening a bit.
  • Step 4: Handles and finishing are essentially the same. I reinforced the first and last FSCs of the handles with basically and extra foundation into the stitches I was joining to, but that’s optional. I also made the handles shorter; I recommend 35 to 40 FSC. Then I work just two more rounds of sc in each stitch all the way around.

Sustainability

Soapbox time!!

I’m all about makers, doers, and creativity. But sometimes it feels like these hobbies are just as wasteful as the rest of the world. There’s a lot of pressure to “build up a stash,” which can be just another version of “buy, buy, buy.” It feels productive to buy supplies for new projects, it makes me feel like an artist, a creator, to have a surplus of inspirational material, and that shoots my endorphins right up.

At the same time, that stash can be overwhelming. When it isn’t a source of inspiration, when it’s just another pile of stuff. All the “inspirations” left unfinished, or worse, un-begun; they weigh on my mind and my soul. I get stuck, frozen, unable to start anything new, unable to finish anything old. Often I find myself “solving” this problem by going out and getting even more yarn, fabric, colored pencils, underwater basket weaving supplies. Because it feels good.

This is not sustainability. And as mush as I am about artistic expression and creativity, I am also about sustainability.

So what am I to do? What are we crafters to do? How do we feed our creativity without contributing to a toxic cycle of buy, stash, guilt, buy, stash, guilt?

I think one option is to change how we obtain our raw materials. I’ve recently become involved in an amazing organization that is helping to solve this very problem, the 757 Creative ReUse Center. They are a nonprofit organization dedicated to making art more affordable and sustainable.

There are creative reuse centers all over the country, and they’re all a little different. But they all have sustainable and creativity at their core.

The 757 Creative ReUse Center is essentially a second hand store for crafting supplies, but they are more than that. It’s fabric and yarn and paint and stamps and paper, all of the things you would see at a big box craft store, with tile and hardware and scrap thrown in. It’s about making you reexamine all the materials around you every day and look at them in new ways, instead of shoving them in a drawer or throwing them away.

All the yarn I used to make this bag I got from the 757CRC, and paid about half of what I would have paid for it at a craft store or yarn shop. ($3 I think, but it might have been $4).

And the leftover bits and bobs from this project? Instead of having them stuffed into a craft basket, I can donate them back, knowing that someone else will use them for the scrap project that, let’s face it, I’ll never get around to starting.

I’ve also donated a fair amount of crafting supplies that have been distracting me from projects I really want to make. Guiltlessly, because I know they are going to find a good home and be put to better use than hanging out in my closet for the next 11 years.

These centers are popping up all of the world, but the 757CRC put together a map of all the ones in the US. I strongly encourage you to see if there is one near you. And if there isn’t one, start one. Seriously. Do it. If you need advice, message me, or the 757CRC, and let’s talk.

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